Imagine
a place where the colors of gold dominate the landscape; a place where
water rules the desert; a place where tens of thousands of birds mingle
and feed alongside one another. It would seem that a place like this
could only exist in one's imagination, but in reality such a place does
exist. Its name is Bosque Del Apache National Wildlife Refuge, and it
is found in the most unlikely of locations.
Location:
In Spanish, the word bosque means "woodland" and true to
its name, this 57,191 acre refuge is a mixture of mesquite and cottonwood
stands dispersed along a network of freshwater marshes and sloughs than
run along the floodplains of the Rio Grande in New Mexico. Located approximately
70 miles south of Albuquerque and 140 miles north of Las Cruces, these
wetlands provide a welcomed water supply in the midst of the barren
scrublands surrounding them. In fact, on approaching Bosque it is almost
impossible to believe that water, birds, or anything for that matter,
could be present in any kind of abundance. But as you travel forward
remember, things are not always as they appear.
The closest city to Bosque Del Apache is Socorro, located nine miles
to the north. To reach the refuge from Socorro, take I-25 south to exit
139. From there drive US 380 east one-quarter mile into San Antonio.
At the flashing light head south on Old Highway 1. The Visitor Center
is located nine miles down on the right and the refuge is located one
mile further on the left. If arriving from Las Cruces, take I-25 north
to exit 124, and continue north to the refuge and the Visitor Center.
Weather:
Although Bosque Del Apache is located in the desert southwest,
it is subject to all seasons and the weather that generally typifies
each. Fall begins the high season at Bosque, bringing in massive flocks
of migrating birds. The falling temperatures spur on the changing of
the leaves amongst cottonwoods and mesquites, providing a lovely golden
backdrop for photography. Winter is peak high season at Bosque and consequently
the photographer's favorite time to visit. One can expect relatively
cold temperatures with overnight lows regularly dropping below the freezing
point. Winter weather includes a mixture of rain and snow, but sunny
days are often common and prevalent. Spring is often pleasantly mild
and dry, while summer brings blistering temperatures that commonly exceed
100 degrees Fahrenheit. The extreme heat often spawns afternoon thunderstorms,
particularly in July and August, which are sometimes followed by spectacular
rainbows.
Photo Experience:
Without doubt, Bosque leads the list in top places to photograph
large concentrations of birds. Winter provides the heaviest concentrations,
as migrants begin to arrive in November and stay through February before
moving on. The main attractions are the huge flocks of sandhill cranes
and snow geese that come to feed in the grain fields that border the
refuge. The sandhills frequently number in the thousands, with a few
whooping cranes mixed in, while geese populations easily reach into
the tens-of-thousands. Bald eagles also call Bosque home
during
the winter months.
The Tour Loop is a combination of two unpaved auto-tracks, both running
primarily one-way and joined by a two-way cut-off. The Marsh Loop encompasses
the south end of the refuge and runs seven-and-a-half miles. The Farm
Loop encompasses the north end of the refuge. Stretching seven miles,
it is the more popular of the two loops. It is comprised of a series
of cottonwood stands, grain fields, and freshwater marshes, with observation
decks distributed throughout.
Late afternoon in the grain fields provides excellent opportunities
to shoot flocks of feeding cranes and geese, both close-up and in group
flocks. Because of their proximity to the road, your vehicle will serve
as a perfect blind. Watch the flocks of snow geese, as they have a habit
of lifting, in mass, from the fields in sudden bursts of flight. Dramatizing
the moment further, the sun's low position in the sky reflects gold
light onto the birds' white plumage, causing them to appear like glittering
confetti cast to the wind.
Bosque's most impressive photographic shows however, occur between
sunset and sunrise, and there is only one place to be when the time
arrives - the Flight Deck. Located approximately one mile north of the
main entrance or at the end of the Farm Loop's one-way route, this observation
deck stretches out over a vast marsh and can't be missed. Every evening
brings thousands of honking geese and shrilling cranes flying in overhead,
transforming the formally tranquil scene into a re-creation of the attack
on Pearl Harbor. The shallow waters reflect the rich colors of sunset,
creating brightly colored pockets of liquid, each containing the graceful
silhouettes of landing and wading birds.
As this becomes the birds' roosting place for the night, it stands
to reason they will be there in the morning. If you return to the Flight
Deck in the morning just as the first rays of light appear in the sky,
you will be rewarded with a truly breathtaking vision. In the cool pastel
hues of dawn, the geese, now in compact massive flocks, will suddenly
lift up in an explosion of flight. This will occur without fail - and
also without warning. As if on some secret signal, the birds begin to
rise from one end and in one continuous motion, carry through in a wave
until the sky is literally filled with a blizzard of deafening waterfowl.
They will circle the area and land once more in the marsh. They may
repeat this action once or twice more before heading off to their feeding
grounds for the day. This allows plenty of occasions to capture the
act throughout the many moods of sunrise - but only if you are set up
ahead of time and prepared to capture the action before it happens!
Even without the star attractions, the remainder of the year offers
great photo possibilities. Landscapes are beautiful throughout the year
and should not be overlooked. Always keep your eyes peeled for herons,
cormorants, turkeys, quail, pheasants and roadrunners. Also look for
mammals such as mule deer, coyotes, porcupines and muskrats. The mule
deer in particular seem fairly habituated to human presence and therefore
are easily photographed.
Photo Equipment:
One should come prepared with a primary 35mm camera body
that accepts interchangeable lenses. If available, a second back-up
body should also be made available. As birds are the focus of any visit
to Bosque Del Apache, one should carry with them their longest focal
length lens. Telephotos ranging 400mm and higher are perfect for almost
any bird or mammal situation encountered here. If you don't own a super-telephoto
lens, don't despair. Lenses between the 200mm and 300mm range will garner
their share of quality images, as the birds are not shy and frequently
stand close to the roads and observation decks. Teleconverters are also
useful, especially with the shorter telephotos.
Don't forget to bring shorter focal length lenses also, including wide-angles,
to capture the beautiful landscapes surrounding Bosque and to make environmental
portraits of the birds. A tripod should be brought for use at sunrise
and sunset at the Flight Deck, but for other circumstances, first look
at shooting from your car. A car acts as a perfect blind and if used,
a window mount or beanbag can be used for camera support. Don't forget
to shut off the engine to eliminate unwanted vibration. A flash (and
extender for long telephotos), cable release, and polarizing filter
will also come in handy.
Film should be a personal choice, but keep in mind that this area is
vast and open allowing for plenty of brightly lit situations, therefore
fine-grained films with ratings of ISO 100 and lower are perfectly acceptable.
Best Times:
As has already been stated, winter is the best time to visit due to
the winter migrants. The cranes and geese are in their strongest numbers
between mid-November and mid-February. Every third weekend in November
brings the Annual Festival of the Cranes. The four-day event celebrates
the arrival of these birds and includes guest-speakers, special group
tours, and wildlife displays. Contact Information: Bosque Del Apache
NWR, P.O. Box 1246, Socorro, New Mexico 87801. (505) 835-1828.